Sips of Cha

Trekking de Inverno até Kiwi Saddle Hut

A woman and her dog stand on a frost-dusted mountain ridge, gazing toward the misty, forest-covered peaks in the distance. The woman is dressed in dark hiking clothes, including a black puffer jacket, navy pants, and sturdy boots, with a purple backpack on her shoulders. Her hair is tied back in a bun, and she looks over her right shoulder, away from the dog. The medium-sized dog, wearing a green jacket, stands close to her, facing the expansive mountain view. The surrounding terrain is rugged and covered in alpine vegetation, with patches of ice and frost clinging to the plants. The background shows steep, forested slopes under an overcast sky, partially obscured by low-hanging mist.

Neste post, compartilho fotos da nossa trilha do último fim de semana. Fomos até a Kiwi Saddle Hut, localizada no Kaweka Forest Park, na região de Hawke’s Bay, Ilha Norte da Nova Zelândia, a cerca de 1.170 metros de altitude, em uma clareira cercada por floresta de faias. Construída em 1987 para substituir uma estrutura anterior, a cabana é mantida pelo Heretaunga Tramping Club e serve como ponto de apoio para caminhantes e montanhistas.

O acesso mais comum é a partir do Cameron Carpark, subindo o Monte Kuripapango e seguindo pela Smith-Russell Track, em um percurso de aproximadamente quatro horas. Nós, porém, optamos pelo acesso mais direto via Lakes Carpark, em um percurso de 2 horas e 45 minutos.

Do Lakes Carpark até a Kiwi Saddle Hut são cerca de 6,9 km de trilha, com um ganho total de elevação de quase 800 metros. Os primeiros 45 minutos são os mais puxados, com inclinações constantes, e o trecho é basicamente por uma floresta de pinheiros — espécie que não é nativa da Nova Zelândia.

No inverno, a trilha se torna ainda mais desafiadora, com neve, gelo e vento gelado. No primeiro dia, o frio apertava sempre que parávamos para descansar; o vento, cortante, mas ainda moderado. Já no dia seguinte, tivemos a sorte de ver a neve cair — um espetáculo lindo de assistir e ainda mais gelado de sentir!

Aqui estão os cliques da trilha do fim de semana:

A scenic mountain view with deep valleys, forested slopes, and distant peaks under a partly cloudy sky.

A presença abundante de pinheiros ao longo da trilha para a Kiwi Saddle Hut é resultado de antigas práticas de reflorestamento e controle de erosão implementadas no século 20, quando grandes áreas do Kaweka Forest Park haviam sido degradadas pelo sobrepastoreio, queimadas e desmatamento. Espécies exóticas de pinus, como o Pinus radiata, foram plantadas porque crescem rápido, se adaptam bem a solos pobres e ajudam a estabilizar encostas. Embora hoje o foco seja a regeneração da vegetação nativa — com matagais de mānuka, kānuka e bosques de faia se expandindo. Esses pinheiros ainda dominam trechos da trilha, criando corredores densos e sombreados que contrastam com as áreas de flora nativa.

A panoramic view of a mountainous landscape under a cloudy, overcast sky. In the foreground, small pine trees dusted with a light layer of snow or frost grow from a rocky, pale ground. The middle ground is dominated by densely forested slopes in deep green hues, leading into rolling ridges of bare, brownish peaks. In the background, higher mountains are partially obscured by low-hanging clouds, with patches of snow visible on the upper ridges, creating a sense of depth and cool, wintery atmosphere.
Scenic view of a mountainous landscape under an overcast sky, with rolling hills and peaks covered in dense forest. In the foreground, clusters of tall evergreen trees with green and slightly yellow-tipped needles frame the scene, standing on a rocky, reddish-brown ground scattered with small stones. The distant mountains appear in layers, fading into bluish and grey tones due to atmospheric haze, with hints of snow or lighter rock near the upper ridges. The overall mood is cool and tranquil, evoking the crisp air of a high-altitude or late-season hike.
Alt text: A frosty alpine slope with a thin layer of white ice crystals covering the rocky ground, dotted with tufts of dry golden grass. In the middle ground, a dense cluster of pine trees transitions from bright green to rusty red-brown, suggesting seasonal change or weather damage. In the background, soft blue-gray mountain ridges fade into the cloudy sky, creating a crisp, cold high-altitude atmosphere.

A mountain view with rust-colored trees in the foreground and green forested valleys stretching into the distance.

A coloracao alaranjada-avermelhada dos pinheiros se dá por conta do manejo ambiental — o Departamento de Conservação da Nova Zelândia realiza campanhas de erradicação de pinus selvagens (wilding pines), cortando ou envenenando árvores invasoras para restaurar a vegetação nativa. O contraste entre o verde profundo da mata nativa e o vermelho enferrujado dos pinheiros mortos cria um cenário interessante, quase dramático, que ressalta a transição entre vida e a decadência na paisagem.

Expansive mountain landscape under a pale, overcast sky, with multiple ridges fading into the misty distance. The slopes are densely covered with dark green forest, creating deep, shadowed valleys. In the center of the scene, a winding turquoise river snakes through the valley floor, reflecting the muted light from above. In the foreground, jagged rocky outcrops covered with sparse alpine vegetation, moss, and tufts of grass frame the view, adding texture and depth to the scene. The overall atmosphere is serene yet dramatic, with a sense of vast wilderness and untouched nature.

Vale do rio Ngaruroro, que serpenteia o Parque Florestal Kaweka e é o principal curso d’água da região.

A dog walks along a mossy forest trail, surrounded by tall, dark trees with mist in the background.
A dog walks along a winding mossy trail in a dense forest of tall, thin trees.
Upward view of tall forest trees with slender trunks covered in moss and lichen, extending high into a dense canopy of small green leaves. Branches crisscross in multiple directions, creating an intricate network against the pale sky in the background. The light filters softly through the foliage, giving the scene a serene, cool-toned atmosphere typical of a temperate or high-altitude rainforest.
Dense forest scene with tall, straight trees covered in thick green moss, their trunks rising high and close together. The forest floor is uneven, blanketed in vibrant moss, fallen branches, and patches of brown earth. Understory vegetation is sparse, allowing visibility deeper into the woods. The light filtering through the canopy creates a cool, damp atmosphere, typical of a temperate rainforest or high-altitude beech forest.
A mossy forest floor dotted with fallen branches and tall, lichen-covered trees.

Mas a trilha não é só de pinhos. Também há trechos de floresta de faias — minha parte favorita. O chão se cobre de moss, aquele musgo verde e macio que parece um tapete vivo. As raízes retorcidas se escondem sob essa manta, e o ar ali é mais úmido, mais fresco, carregando um silêncio denso, quebrado apenas pelo farfalhar das folhas. É como entrar em um mundo à parte, onde o tempo desacelera e tudo parece mais antigo e protegido.

A woman with a purple backpack hikes along a moss-covered trail in the forest, following her dog.
A woman with a purple backpack stands on a moss-covered forest trail, smiling at the camera.
A woman in hiking gear stands in a mossy forest with her dog, both looking toward the camera.

Em meu elemento. 😊

A dog walks along a rocky forest trail, wearing a backpack, surrounded by pine trees.
A dog runs along a forest path covered in reddish pine needles, surrounded by dense green pine trees.
A wet dog with a green pack stands alert on a pine needle-covered trail between tall, dark tree trunks.
A wet dog wearing a green pack stands on a sandy, root-covered trail with misty hills and pine trees in the background.

Pokie também adora uma trilha principalmente no frio.

A close-up view of a frosty forest trail, with snow-dusted plants and part of a woman’s head in the foreground.
A dog walks along a frosty forest trail with snow-dusted pine trees on both sides.
A woman in hiking clothes kneels on a snowy forest trail, holding and petting her dog.
A misty alpine trail lined with green pines and patches of snow on the ground.

Nesse trecho, já quase no pico, estava um frio congelante.

Weathered wooden trail sign standing in a lightly snow-dusted alpine area, surrounded by low shrubs in shades of green, brown, and purple. The sign points in three directions with carved lettering: “Kiwi Saddle Hut 30 mins,” “Cameron Hut 3 hrs,” and “Lakes & Cameron Carpark.” The frosty ground and muted vegetation indicate a cold, possibly early winter or late autumn day in a high-altitude environment, with misty forest and hills in the background.
Wooden trail sign in a moss-covered forest, painted dark green with a yellow border and white text. The left side reads “Kiwi Mouth Hut ← 2 hr” with a small, faint handwritten addition below saying “Yeah right,” while the right side reads “Studholme Saddle Hut → 3–3.5 hr.” The sign is mounted on two short wooden posts at a right angle, positioned beside a fork in the trail. The forest floor is carpeted with bright green moss, fallen branches, and pine needles, with tree trunks covered in lichen and moss in the background.

A mesma trilha, dois mundos — o contraste da placa nevada do topo e a placa verde no refúgio de faias.

A fog-covered mountain slope with dense green pine forest partially hidden by mist, leading up to a ridge obscured by low clouds. In the foreground, a rocky, barren section of the slope is scattered with tufts of golden-brown grass. A blue heeler dog sniffs the ground near the center, adding a sense of scale to the vast, moody alpine landscape.

Chegando ao topo, a vegetação dá lugar a um solo arenoso e pequenos pinheiros.

A gnarled, weathered tree with twisted, sprawling branches covered in patches of lichen and moss, standing against a dense forest backdrop. The bark is rough and aged, with sections showing exposed, lighter wood. Around the base, tufts of green alpine plants and tussock grasses grow among the sandy, frost-dusted ground, suggesting a cold, high-altitude environment. The background is filled with a mix of dark green and brown foliage from surrounding trees, creating a contrast with the pale, skeletal appearance of the twisted tree in the foreground.
A narrow forest trail covered in pine needles, with patches of snow and twisted tree branches overhead.

Coisas que prendem meus olhos: a arte natural dos troncos retorcidos e o ponto onde a luz encontra a neve, rompendo a escuridão da mata.

Small rustic hut with a corrugated metal roof and walls, featuring a red gabled roof section and a covered porch, nestled within a dense forest. Smoke rises gently from a silver chimney, suggesting a lit wood stove inside. A wooden ladder leans against the wall, and outdoor gear is stored under the porch. In the foreground, a narrow set of wooden steps leads up through damp, mossy terrain surrounded by native vegetation, including ferns and grasses. Tall trees with thick canopies frame the hut, creating a secluded and tranquil atmosphere in this remote wilderness setting.
A small corrugated metal hut with a red gabled roof and beige walls, located in a forest clearing. Smoke rises from a metal chimney on the roof, drifting horizontally across the frame, suggesting a lit wood stove inside. The hut has two small rectangular windows with condensation, a covered porch supported by metal poles, and a small attached woodshed on the side containing a pile of branches and kindling. The surrounding ground is a mix of grass, bare soil, and scattered sticks, with dense evergreen forest in the background. The open doorway reveals a sign reading "Kiwi Saddle Hut."

Sentia mais frio dentro da cabana que fora dela. A lenha estava molhada, a lareira demorou um tanto para esquentar. Passamos a noite na companhia de um homem, dois meninos de sete e oito anos e um adolescente.

A close-up of a worn wooden table in a dimly lit cabin, with a bright green collapsible camping bowl in the foreground containing a creamy oatmeal-like meal. A yellow plastic spork rests inside the bowl, its handle marked with measurement indicators. In the background, a small stack of folded maps and pamphlets, including one for “Fiordland,” lies slightly out of focus. A black thermos, a small piece of wood, and faint hints of camping gear in shadow complete the rustic, cozy scene.

Meu café da manhã: mingau reforçado com whey, combustível para a caminhada de volta.

Close-up view of frost-covered shrubs and small tree branches on a cold mountainside. The thin, leafless branches are coated with a delicate layer of ice crystals and pale yellow-green lichen, creating a textured, wintry appearance. In the foreground, the frost glistens against the dark bark, while the background reveals a blurred vista of steep, forested mountain slopes in shades of deep green and blue. The overall scene conveys a crisp, alpine environment, likely in early winter or after a sudden frost.
View through a thicket of small, leafless trees and shrubs covered in a heavy layer of pale lichen or frost, creating a ghostly white appearance. The foreground branches are out of focus, framing the scene and adding depth. Beyond the frosted vegetation, rolling forested hills stretch into the distance, covered in dense green trees that fade into a blueish hue with atmospheric perspective. The muted, overcast lighting gives the landscape a cold, wintery feel, even without visible snow on the distant slopes.
Close-up view of a leafless tree covered in a light dusting of frost and pale green lichen, its bare, twisting branches reaching outward in all directions. The frost clings to the bark and twigs, giving them a textured, crystalline appearance. The muted winter light creates a cold, subdued color palette of grays and browns, with a hint of green from the lichen. In the blurred background, forested hills and a pale, overcast sky hint at the rugged landscape beyond.

Detalhes que me chamaram a atenção no caminho de volta. É incrível como a mesma trilha se transforma quando percorrida no sentido inverso — quase como se fosse um lugar novo.

É isso! Espero que tenha curtido os cliques.

Até a próxima,

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