Sips of Cha

Winter Hike to Kiwi Saddle Hut

A woman and her dog stand on a frost-dusted mountain ridge, gazing toward the misty, forest-covered peaks in the distance. The woman is dressed in dark hiking clothes, including a black puffer jacket, navy pants, and sturdy boots, with a purple backpack on her shoulders. Her hair is tied back in a bun, and she looks over her right shoulder, away from the dog. The medium-sized dog, wearing a green jacket, stands close to her, facing the expansive mountain view. The surrounding terrain is rugged and covered in alpine vegetation, with patches of ice and frost clinging to the plants. The background shows steep, forested slopes under an overcast sky, partially obscured by low-hanging mist.

In this post, I’m sharing photos from our hike last weekend. We went to the Kiwi Saddle Hut, located in Kaweka Forest Park, in the Hawke’s Bay region of New Zealand’s North Island, at around 1,170 meters above sea level, in a clearing surrounded by beech forest. Built in 1987 to replace a previous structure, the hut is maintained by the Heretaunga Tramping Club and serves as a support point for hikers and mountaineers.

The most common access is from Cameron Carpark, up Mount Kuripapango and along the Smith-Russell Track, which takes about four hours. We, however, opted for the most direct access via Lakes Carpark, which takes 2 hours and 45 minutes.

From Lakes Carpark to Kiwi Saddle Hut there are about 6.9 km of trail, with a total elevation gain of almost 800 meters. The first 45 minutes are the toughest, with constant inclines, and the stretch is basically through a pine forest – a species that is not native to New Zealand.

In winter, the trail becomes even more challenging, with snow, ice and freezing wind. On the first day, the cold was biting every time we stopped to rest, and the wind was biting, but still moderate. The next day, we were lucky enough to see the snow fall – a beautiful sight to behold and even colder to feel!

Here are the clicks from the weekend’s trail:

A scenic mountain view with deep valleys, forested slopes, and distant peaks under a partly cloudy sky.

The abundant presence of pine trees along the trail to Kiwi Saddle Hut is the result of old reforestation and erosion control practices implemented in the 20th century, when large areas of Kaweka Forest Park had been degraded by overgrazing, burning and deforestation. Exotic pine species, such as Pinus radiata, were planted because they grow fast, adapt well to poor soils and help stabilize slopes. Although today the focus is on regenerating native vegetation – with mānuka, kānuka and beech forests expanding. These pines still dominate sections of the trail, creating dense, shaded corridors that contrast with the areas of native flora.

A panoramic view of a mountainous landscape under a cloudy, overcast sky. In the foreground, small pine trees dusted with a light layer of snow or frost grow from a rocky, pale ground. The middle ground is dominated by densely forested slopes in deep green hues, leading into rolling ridges of bare, brownish peaks. In the background, higher mountains are partially obscured by low-hanging clouds, with patches of snow visible on the upper ridges, creating a sense of depth and cool, wintery atmosphere.
Scenic view of a mountainous landscape under an overcast sky, with rolling hills and peaks covered in dense forest. In the foreground, clusters of tall evergreen trees with green and slightly yellow-tipped needles frame the scene, standing on a rocky, reddish-brown ground scattered with small stones. The distant mountains appear in layers, fading into bluish and grey tones due to atmospheric haze, with hints of snow or lighter rock near the upper ridges. The overall mood is cool and tranquil, evoking the crisp air of a high-altitude or late-season hike.
Alt text: A frosty alpine slope with a thin layer of white ice crystals covering the rocky ground, dotted with tufts of dry golden grass. In the middle ground, a dense cluster of pine trees transitions from bright green to rusty red-brown, suggesting seasonal change or weather damage. In the background, soft blue-gray mountain ridges fade into the cloudy sky, creating a crisp, cold high-altitude atmosphere.

A mountain view with rust-colored trees in the foreground and green forested valleys stretching into the distance.

The reddish-orange color of the pines is due to environmental management – the New Zealand Department of Conservation carries out wilding pine eradication campaigns, cutting down or poisoning invasive trees to restore the native vegetation. The contrast between the deep green of the native forest and the rusty red of the dead pines creates an interesting, almost dramatic scene that highlights the transition between life and decay in the landscape.

Expansive mountain landscape under a pale, overcast sky, with multiple ridges fading into the misty distance. The slopes are densely covered with dark green forest, creating deep, shadowed valleys. In the center of the scene, a winding turquoise river snakes through the valley floor, reflecting the muted light from above. In the foreground, jagged rocky outcrops covered with sparse alpine vegetation, moss, and tufts of grass frame the view, adding texture and depth to the scene. The overall atmosphere is serene yet dramatic, with a sense of vast wilderness and untouched nature.

The valley of the Ngaruroro River, which meanders through the Kaweka Forest Park and is the main watercourse in the region.

A dog walks along a mossy forest trail, surrounded by tall, dark trees with mist in the background.
A dog walks along a winding mossy trail in a dense forest of tall, thin trees.
Upward view of tall forest trees with slender trunks covered in moss and lichen, extending high into a dense canopy of small green leaves. Branches crisscross in multiple directions, creating an intricate network against the pale sky in the background. The light filters softly through the foliage, giving the scene a serene, cool-toned atmosphere typical of a temperate or high-altitude rainforest.
Dense forest scene with tall, straight trees covered in thick green moss, their trunks rising high and close together. The forest floor is uneven, blanketed in vibrant moss, fallen branches, and patches of brown earth. Understory vegetation is sparse, allowing visibility deeper into the woods. The light filtering through the canopy creates a cool, damp atmosphere, typical of a temperate rainforest or high-altitude beech forest.
A mossy forest floor dotted with fallen branches and tall, lichen-covered trees.

But the trail isn’t all pine. There are also stretches of beech forest – my favorite part. The ground is covered in moss.It’s a soft, green moss that looks like a living carpet. The twisted roots hide under this blanket, and the air there is more humid, fresher, carrying a dense silence, broken only by the rustle of leaves. It’s like entering a world apart, where time slows down and everything seems older and more protected.

A woman with a purple backpack hikes along a moss-covered trail in the forest, following her dog.
A woman with a purple backpack stands on a moss-covered forest trail, smiling at the camera.
A woman in hiking gear stands in a mossy forest with her dog, both looking toward the camera.

In my element.😊

A dog walks along a rocky forest trail, wearing a backpack, surrounded by pine trees.
A dog runs along a forest path covered in reddish pine needles, surrounded by dense green pine trees.
A wet dog with a green pack stands alert on a pine needle-covered trail between tall, dark tree trunks.
A wet dog wearing a green pack stands on a sandy, root-covered trail with misty hills and pine trees in the background.

Pokie also loves a hike, especially in cold weather.

A close-up view of a frosty forest trail, with snow-dusted plants and part of a woman’s head in the foreground.
A dog walks along a frosty forest trail with snow-dusted pine trees on both sides.
A woman in hiking clothes kneels on a snowy forest trail, holding and petting her dog.
A misty alpine trail lined with green pines and patches of snow on the ground.

In this section, almost at the peak, it was freezing cold.

Weathered wooden trail sign standing in a lightly snow-dusted alpine area, surrounded by low shrubs in shades of green, brown, and purple. The sign points in three directions with carved lettering: “Kiwi Saddle Hut 30 mins,” “Cameron Hut 3 hrs,” and “Lakes & Cameron Carpark.” The frosty ground and muted vegetation indicate a cold, possibly early winter or late autumn day in a high-altitude environment, with misty forest and hills in the background.
Wooden trail sign in a moss-covered forest, painted dark green with a yellow border and white text. The left side reads “Kiwi Mouth Hut ← 2 hr” with a small, faint handwritten addition below saying “Yeah right,” while the right side reads “Studholme Saddle Hut → 3–3.5 hr.” The sign is mounted on two short wooden posts at a right angle, positioned beside a fork in the trail. The forest floor is carpeted with bright green moss, fallen branches, and pine needles, with tree trunks covered in lichen and moss in the background.

The same trail, two worlds – the contrast of the snowy sign at the top and the green sign in the beech shelter.

A fog-covered mountain slope with dense green pine forest partially hidden by mist, leading up to a ridge obscured by low clouds. In the foreground, a rocky, barren section of the slope is scattered with tufts of golden-brown grass. A blue heeler dog sniffs the ground near the center, adding a sense of scale to the vast, moody alpine landscape.

Once you reach the top, the vegetation gives way to sandy soil and small pine trees.

A gnarled, weathered tree with twisted, sprawling branches covered in patches of lichen and moss, standing against a dense forest backdrop. The bark is rough and aged, with sections showing exposed, lighter wood. Around the base, tufts of green alpine plants and tussock grasses grow among the sandy, frost-dusted ground, suggesting a cold, high-altitude environment. The background is filled with a mix of dark green and brown foliage from surrounding trees, creating a contrast with the pale, skeletal appearance of the twisted tree in the foreground.
A narrow forest trail covered in pine needles, with patches of snow and twisted tree branches overhead.

Things that catch my eye: the natural art of the twisted trunks and the point where the light meets the snow, breaking through the darkness of the forest.

Small rustic hut with a corrugated metal roof and walls, featuring a red gabled roof section and a covered porch, nestled within a dense forest. Smoke rises gently from a silver chimney, suggesting a lit wood stove inside. A wooden ladder leans against the wall, and outdoor gear is stored under the porch. In the foreground, a narrow set of wooden steps leads up through damp, mossy terrain surrounded by native vegetation, including ferns and grasses. Tall trees with thick canopies frame the hut, creating a secluded and tranquil atmosphere in this remote wilderness setting.
A small corrugated metal hut with a red gabled roof and beige walls, located in a forest clearing. Smoke rises from a metal chimney on the roof, drifting horizontally across the frame, suggesting a lit wood stove inside. The hut has two small rectangular windows with condensation, a covered porch supported by metal poles, and a small attached woodshed on the side containing a pile of branches and kindling. The surrounding ground is a mix of grass, bare soil, and scattered sticks, with dense evergreen forest in the background. The open doorway reveals a sign reading "Kiwi Saddle Hut."

It was colder inside the hut than outside. The wood was wet and the fire took a while to warm up. We spent the night in the company of a man, two boys aged seven and eight years old and a teenager.

A close-up of a worn wooden table in a dimly lit cabin, with a bright green collapsible camping bowl in the foreground containing a creamy oatmeal-like meal. A yellow plastic spork rests inside the bowl, its handle marked with measurement indicators. In the background, a small stack of folded maps and pamphlets, including one for “Fiordland,” lies slightly out of focus. A black thermos, a small piece of wood, and faint hints of camping gear in shadow complete the rustic, cozy scene.

My breakfast: porridge with whey, fuel for the walk back.

Close-up view of frost-covered shrubs and small tree branches on a cold mountainside. The thin, leafless branches are coated with a delicate layer of ice crystals and pale yellow-green lichen, creating a textured, wintry appearance. In the foreground, the frost glistens against the dark bark, while the background reveals a blurred vista of steep, forested mountain slopes in shades of deep green and blue. The overall scene conveys a crisp, alpine environment, likely in early winter or after a sudden frost.
View through a thicket of small, leafless trees and shrubs covered in a heavy layer of pale lichen or frost, creating a ghostly white appearance. The foreground branches are out of focus, framing the scene and adding depth. Beyond the frosted vegetation, rolling forested hills stretch into the distance, covered in dense green trees that fade into a blueish hue with atmospheric perspective. The muted, overcast lighting gives the landscape a cold, wintery feel, even without visible snow on the distant slopes.
Close-up view of a leafless tree covered in a light dusting of frost and pale green lichen, its bare, twisting branches reaching outward in all directions. The frost clings to the bark and twigs, giving them a textured, crystalline appearance. The muted winter light creates a cold, subdued color palette of grays and browns, with a hint of green from the lichen. In the blurred background, forested hills and a pale, overcast sky hint at the rugged landscape beyond.

Details that caught my eye on the way back. It’s amazing how the same trail changes when you go in the opposite direction – almost as if it were a new place.

That’s it! Hope you enjoyed the shots.

Until the next sip,

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